Who it's for

  • Safety-conscious climbers seeking maximum security during complex rope maneuvers
  • Multi-pitch climbers needing a spacious carabiner for efficient rope management
  • Weight-conscious alpinists who refuse to sacrifice durability for lightness

Who should skip it

  • Winter climbers or beginners who prefer simple, intuitive gate operations
  • Budget-focused recreationalists looking for the most affordable gear options
  • Minimalist climbers prioritizing a low-profile rack for tight squeeze chimneys

Performance breakdown

Rope Handling

The wide HMS basket makes managing multiple hitches feel effortless.

Excellent

Gate Clearance

Short gate design creates surprisingly generous space for quick, efficient clipping.

Excellent

Snag Resistance

Keylock nose geometry eliminates annoying hangups on slings and ropes.

Excellent

Weight-to-Strength Ratio

Impressively light for a full-sized HMS frame without sacrificing structural integrity.

Excellent

Locking Security

Auto-locking mechanism provides reliable, one-handed peace of mind during belays.

Excellent

Ergonomics

Shape fits naturally in the hand, even when wearing climbing gloves.

Excellent

Key Specs

Material

Aluminum

Shape

Pear Shape (HMS)

Gate Type

Auto-locking

Major Axis Strength

26.0 kN

Minor Axis Strength

9.0 kN

Open Gate Strength

7.0 kN

Gate Opening

21.0 mm

Rope Capacity

9.5 mm

Weight

76.5 grams

Dimensions

115.0 x 77.0 mm

Know before you buy

Still have a question?

Ask Metto anything about the DMM Shadow HMS Carabiner before you decide.

DMM Shadow HMS Carabiner

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